| Vintage 20s/30s Ecstasy |
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06:11pm 17/10/2009 |
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You know...I think I've had one of those weeks of which we dream. Those ones- the ones in which you walk into an opshop and there's a Patou sitting next to a Fortuny and they're marked at $2 each? Or when some distant relative leaves you their entire collection of Vionnet and Schiaparelli gowns. I suppose a Fortuny could have made my week better, or a Vionnet. But that's probably what it would have taken. People like me - your ordinary individual, not overly financially endowed, not with social or financial clout, don't have weeks (let alone days) like my last couple have been. I have to thank Nicole of Circa Vintage for thinking of me (and, I suspect, of prioritising love of the era and its couture over mere fiscal considerations), because I love this dress. Yes, it has a reputed Chanel provenance (and Nicole is one of those people you trust on provenance). But you know what? I've fallen for it entirely on its own merits. Head over heels. The quality breathes through it...the era breathes through it. You hold it up to the light, the beads sway, the light flicks of them, and a jazz band starts up in the back your head. It IS the 1920s. It's one of the most evocative pieces I've seen. It's every cliche, and every truth, about the era. And I'm smitten. (There must be something to psychoanalyse here - I fall in love with dresses as others fall in love with their dates, but with a more enduring infatuation). I wish you could all see this, because it shouldn't be viewed static. It should always, always be viewed dancing. How on earth could that weight of beads be married to that ephemeral textile? How could it last? It wasn't mean to do so - it's a beautiful jazz riff that escaped its era. But it's not sorrowful, mournful survivor as some vintage is, a pitiful wreck or a ghost...it's light and it's laughter and it's dancing whatever era it's in. See for yourself, although no still image can catch it:  ( Chanel close-up...you know you want it! )One of the other dealers I love had a Molyneaux stole going for a song:  Unfortunately the black beading on it doesn't really show up in this pic. But oh, it has a lovely texture...a glamourous stole to snuggle into! Am I a label whore? I'll tell you now, I picked this one off the rack before I ever discovered the label. Colour, texture and beading caught my eye.  ( More Molyneaux ) |
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| Who's a lackadaisical flapper, then? |
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07:53pm 15/10/2009 |
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Oh, so VERY busy lately! Learning French after work for a trip to Paris and around France next year (yes, I am already sending out feelers on the vintage scene). But I have made the odd purchase, including a couple of fabulous new headpieces I'll photograph once I've got the unruly hair into proper (bobbed) order. The big news? It's the Sydney Vintage Clothing fair this weekend, and Nicole from Circa contacted me about THIS! A completely gorgeous Chanel!!! She probably heard the delighted "eeeeeeeeeee" all the way down in Melbourne. I'm already sending out feelers on which of my professional colleagues can handle the restoration. Swags of beads...oh, bliss! And the other great news? The booklaunch of Nicole's book Love Vintage will be tomorrow night (ah...must remember to take the camera). We've booked at the County again in New Zealand for next year, and the tickets go on sale soon (a bit later than usual this year). Jill, Sandra and I have just started discussing outfits...we have quite a bit of unworn frocks that would be suitable, but as usual are on the lookout for something Gatsbyish. It may be a lace sort of day, although floaty chiffon suits Sandra. |
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| Someone's Dutch Doll Bob Needs to be Trimmed... |
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07:59pm 29/07/2009 |
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Apols to anyone who has tried to get me here or on Facebook the last few weeks...it's been a dog's breakfast of a time. Lots of stuff going on and I let the Flappering slide (well, posting about the flappering - I kept up the cocktails and clothes, of course). Had a blast at the opening of the "Exposed!" swimwear opening - an absolutely fabulous Boudoir Queen dress that just totally chased away any "we're all wearing black" Sydney winter blues. Bonus points: I wore ankle-breaking heels, tossed back the flutes of champagne, and did NOT break my ankles. No great photos, alas, as we were having such a blast that not many were taken - this is the closest to showing the dress (end of the evening, so I was a bit the better for a glass or more):    Do go and have a look at "Exposed" at the National Maritime Museum - you'll see some Annette Kellerman items I loaned or helped the curators find. If you haven't already seen it, check out Dawn's exquisite new Boudoir Queen site - it's absolutely stunning eye candy, with the usual brilliant photography and lots of fun features, and she's added a vintage clothing section as well! |
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| The Joys of Op Shops - Follies girls, Ragtime Scandal and Rudy |
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05:29pm 28/06/2009 |
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 My mother has a good eye. She's the one who is willing to trawl through all the junk and come up with gems. So I wasn't too surprised when she told me she'd spotted some old postcards in the local Salvation Army store - 'there were a couple of Rudolph Valentino cards there - you like him, don't you, darling?" Please imagine the cloud of dust as we hot footed it down there. It was also my mother who, as we sorted through a pile of lovely old Edwardian vaudeville stars, laughed and said "oh look - this one is just "Mrs Thaw" - no mention of her forename." I didn't exactly grab it from her hands, but it crossed my mind. Sure enough, it was Evelyn Nesbit Thaw of the famous Red Velvet Swing. Mum, who has lived in New York a couple of times in her life, knew exactly what I was referring to when I mumbled something about the Stamford White shooting. Ragtime indeed! Does anyone know the scarcity of the image? I haven't been able to find another with a quick google. Then it was on to Billie Burke, whom I've always rather liked. Nothing like a Follies Girl!  ( Billie Burke )And for the early cinema fans, here's Pearl White - the back of the card advertised the Birkdale Picture Palace, and noted: 'Exclusive to this Hall A Wonderful Story of Love Myster And Adventure with Present Day War Incidents PEARL OF THE ARMY Featuring Pearl White Every Thurs.Fri. & Sat., Commencing October 11.'  ( Rudolph Valentino )mood:  cheerful |
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| Pulling it together |
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08:10pm 19/06/2009 |
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Oh-kay...finally getting my act together. Work was a maelstrom when I left, has now slowed a bit, although we still have a big opening coming up. I resumed training this week and signed myself up for the City to Surf, so that should help normalisation. And loaded a bunch of 1920s jazz recordings on the iPod for sure-fire mood lifters. Now I just need to catch up with everyone else, as I've been completely out of the loop for nearly a month (and was a frazzled mad woman for weeks before I went O/S). I'm still snowed with research stuff, and another documentary maker has been in touch re a project, but I feel like I'm regaining my happy-flapper equilibrium. Hmmm...opening...what will I wear? |
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| Red! |
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07:02am 01/05/2009 |
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I've been very distracted with work related projects lately - which is a good thing, as my museum occupation arose from one of the great passions of my life. It does mean, however, that I haven't put up the online posts that I intended. Cue some very chuffed blushes indeed - Dawn included me in a line up of absolutely stunning girls in red on her Boudoir Queen blog! That vibrant depth of colour you see in the shots is one of the outstanding characteristics of her designs, achieved by her dying techniques. I wore the new Bollywood jacket over jeans to a gathering on Sunday, and I think the comments came in order of 1. Colour! 2. Sleeves! 3. Appliques! Wear a Boudoir Queen piece and you're bound to get asked where something so stunning came from. It was difficult getting a good shot of the dress as the photographer lacks confidence in her skills and it was a bright, sunny, windy day, but I rather like the odd sunflare effect in this pic! (There's a better shot on the Boudoir Queen blog)  Here's the jacket - this is such an easy to wear piece!   |
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| Stepping out of my era... |
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03:55pm 25/04/2009 |
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I had two fantastic boxes of goodies arrive this week - one from an LJ friend, and the other the Boudoir Queen dress and jacket I wrote about earlier. I'll get some pics up soon, but in the meantime here's the Edwardian dress from last week. It will need some work - the silk lining the bodice is shattering - but is otherwise sturdy and, I think, salvageable (but what do I know???):  ( Pretty pastel details ) |
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| Beautiful things from Boudoir Queen |
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08:00pm 14/04/2009 |
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Copyright Boudoir Queen - image reproduced with permission
Combining the Egyptian Revivial BQ bandeau with a 1920s vintage dress
Some people shop indulgently to fill a hollowness in their lives. I tend to buy things to satisfy not an emptiness, but to express a great love and yearning for things that are beautiful. This time, it's items from the stunning new Boudoir Queen collections.
D’you ever get that little pang when something is just absolutely gorgeous? It’s not pain – not quite – but a sense of beauty so *right* it almost hurts. It’s one reason why I love taking down the large coffee table books that give free-reign to couturiers like Poiret and Lanvin – the close-ups of details mesmerize, the overarching effect of grace, wit, playfulness, elegance, or some combination of the above.
That’s the sort of treatment I’d love to see the Boudoir Queen collection photographs receive – a lush, lavish volume that does justice not just to the wonderful dresses, bandeaux, jewelery, and other lavishly detailed accessories, but also to the perfectly chosen models, the evocative make up and the photography that plays so many moods and shows the many facets of Dawn’s creativity.
( More heart meltingly lovely photos and thoughts from a happy SL )
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| Cloche Collecting Continues |
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06:06pm 29/03/2009 |
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Still haven't got around to sorting out the Special Edition Napier pics - the ones that have caused tremendous amusement among friends.
In the meantime, the quest to develop the 1920s collection continues, with a couple of rather lovely evening cloches from the same fabulous dealer who sold me the deadstock panama hat and a few other evening cloches (I'll have to look up the link to his site to post it here). They're coupled with one of the other new items - a 1930s Racoon coat. Very nice, but *very* heavy and very warm. Unless I get invited to attend an Art Deco festival in the NSW/Victorian Alpine regions, I don't imagine I'll be wearing it any time soon.
I love this one - the chenille embroidery is just the right touch of colour:
Ah yes - the famous simpering smile. Unfortunately the sequins don't show up well in this photo - and it has *swags* of sequins. To which I am of course rather partial.
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| Sunday, 21 February 2009 Art Deco Weekend, Napier |
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06:33am 25/03/2009 |
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Time to wind this up - all good things must...well, you know the drill. Plus I have some new acquisitions to photograph and post! We cleared away the Gatsby Picnic and made the (short) walk back to the County, having a fairly luxurious amount of time to get dressed. I'd hit one of those emotional highs I sometimes do - walking with dancing feet, the whole world a marvellous place. The result was some fun photos in the library that will go into a "Friends Only" post. Then it was on with the gowns - all of us in lovely, easy-to-wear velvet - before walking down the road to the Drinkies on the Deck at the Hawkes Bay Club.  Hawkes Bay Club exterior - look at the hem on Sandra's gorgeous gown! She did some restoration work on this piece. I'm wearing the now restored House of Adair dress
( Velvet frocks with a bit of satin for good measure... )I was nursing my first sore head of the weekend on Monday morning - but well earned, I have to say. Somehow we pulled ourselves together and made out way out to the airport, imagining Weekends of the future. |
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| Art Deco Festival Napier, Sunday, 22 February |
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07:52pm 10/03/2009 |
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Morning It was a 4.45 am start so we could pick a prime position and set up the marquee. There's a lot of cameraderie around the early morning crowd - we were in virtually the same position as last year, and some of the same folks were near us. Everyone was extremely helpful in putting the marquee together - one of the security guards, there to patrol and make sure no one jumped the gun (no marquees up before 6.00 am!) came over with his torch so we could see the parts we were sorting out. Then back for a few hours snooze. Jill and I went into town for a couple of last minute things before we changed into our Gatsby gowns...the fur stole had a practical purpose as it was still quite early and a bit chilly. Some nice beading on this gown - it's understated enough for day wear (perhaps a wee bit dressy for early in the AM!).  That's the side of the Masonic Hotel in the background - look at that gorgeous detailing   |
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| Saturday February 21st - Costumes, Coiffure, and a Cafe Crawl |
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07:17pm 06/03/2009 |
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Costumes and Coiffure CompetitionThen it was back to the hotel for changes to our Costumes and Coiffure competition outfits. I'll never quite get accustomed to donning evening wear in the middle of the day, but I was certainly looking forward to putting the Sunshine Dress, the gold sequined evening cloche, and the vast white fan together for the first time.
Ally was wearing my newest dress, a beaded chiffon in perfect condition with a French label (um...that I need to look at again so I can do some research on it!). Alison, who loves earth tones, had on a rich brown lace dress that still has the slip intact, and a gold bullion and chenille embroidered evening cloche. One of the things I love most about the competition is the chance to see all the competitors - original, repro, novelty etc - backstage up close, and to examine their outfits. The embellishments on this dress were amazing.
It was also a chance to meet up with Miss Sis of the Fedora Lounge - we'd first met briefly in person for the first time the night before at the Late Night Libations, but as we spent a bit of time backstage we had a proper catch up and I had a chance to look at all the gorgeous elements of her dress.
( The Competition )
Victory cocktail - one friend voted this his favourite photo of the whole trip. Apparently he feels it is most truly reflective of my character.
Then back for a victory cocktail before the gown came off for a few hours and the lounging attire went on - I was looking forward to wearing the sturdy dress for the night's Cafe Crawl.
Cafe Crawl Deluxe
Shots in the library before we head out for the night.
( Out on the town )
"No! I can't go out there! It's...it's not 1927! "
( The girls paint the town all sorts of colours )
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| Napier Art Deco Weekend - The Party Begins to Hit Its Stride |
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07:14pm 04/03/2009 |
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Saturday, February 21st I'd be fibbing if I said we'd gone straight to bed the night before. No, we decanted ourselves into Churchill's Bar at the hotel with Howie and a couple of other party-goers. Among the people we met there were Claire and David, visiting from the UK. I'd noticed them around town and at the Opening Soiree - it was hard not to notice them, as Claire is a stunning blonde, perfectly turned out in 30s attire, and David is her match in dashing fedoras and suits. I'd even gone up to them at the Opening earlier in the evening to have a little rave about how fabulous they looked. We finally met up in the pub and did introductions. It turns out Claire, originally a NZer, makes most of her own clothes - an extraordinarily talented woman. We somehow made it upstairs and to bed eventually - Jill and I were sharing a room with Sandra who had retired after the Club, so there was a good deal of far-too-loud Shushing of each other as we teetered in during the small hours (about as subtle as tiptoing elephants). The next morning, when we met up for breakfast, at least one member of the party admitted to feeling "a bit delicate". Jill and Ally had gone out early to get their hair done for the day, so Alison and I enjoyed breakfast while Sandra strolled out on her latest mission. The sun, as promised, was beaming forth, and the cars and crowds were gathering. The parasols we sported were more than an affectation - they were a practical response to the sun!  Ahem - the eyes are bloodshot pink and green to match the dress and shawl! Jill met us at the Cafe Divine, our favourite breakfast spot. Alison split off for her own perambulations, while Jill and I hit the antique fair. After that we all gravitated towards the Masonic where Ally was having her hair done in big Clara Bow curls in the mobile beauty salon.  ( Frocks about town ) Gorgeous bathing belles (after winning the Napier Bathing Belle title in 2007, I'll never contest it again!)
The others drifted back to the hotel on various missions, but I lingered a bit longer - finding Sharon and Paul in the crowd - the finally see a bit of the motor parade. Here it is - for the vintage car fans, and those of us that just love a bit of era ambience!  ( More vintage cars! ) |
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| Napier Art Deco Weekend 2009 |
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07:59am 26/02/2009 |
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Friday 30 February Morning I went out for my Friday morning run along the Marine Promenade with a rather cold wind blowing and rain driving hard into my face - we knew rain was predicted, but it was a bit of a surprise in Sunny Napier. Still, it was needed by the farmers. Long sleeved dresses were the necessity of the day, and we dressed for a trip to the Museum across the round from the County...only to be lured into an Antiques Fair along the way. I swapped dresses with Ally - both of us had brought late 20s/early 30s lace gowns with matching jackets. As usual, the County's rooms provided good backdrops for photos:  ( Deco at the Mission Vineyard ) |
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| Napier Art Deco Weekend Thursday Evening - twirling and lounging |
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06:21pm 24/02/2009 |
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Back to the County, and we had time to change for dinner. We hadn't booked in for a dinner event this year, so we thought we'd just dine fairly "casually" at The Med, the new restaurant and bar that has replaced the Aqua Bar at the Masonic Hotel. It commands a good view of the promenade, and is a great people watching spot. ( Deco dining ) Napier Memorial Arch Then back to the hotel for a change into the traditional lounge wear worn at the Hawkes Bay Cocktail Cascade, and to pick up our boudoir doll mascot Zoe Dee. The Hawkes Bay Club is almost across the road from the County, which is excellent - it's a short hop-skip-jump, and handy for to-ing and fro-ing:  ( Lounging in Deco ) |
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| Napier Art Deco Weekend 2009 - Departure and Thursday Day 1 |
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10:38am 24/02/2009 |
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Wednesday February 18 2009, Sydney - Auckland"We'd like to welcome you aboard our Air New Zealand Flight to Auckland today, and in particular we'd like to extend a special welcome to the group flying to the Art Deco festival in Napier!" ( The journey to Art Deco begins... )Thursday February 19 2009, Auckland - NapierMorning-Early Afternoon We arrived at about midday after the short one hour flight from Auckland - I felt the thrill up my spine spotting the familiar pines along the marine promenade from the air. I was singing as I stepped off the plane, happy to be back in the centre of Decodom. Then we poured into a minivan and made it to the County Hotel right in the heart of Napier. They gave us a warm welcome and took charge of our bags as it was too early for check in, and we poured out into the street. It took some effort to get me settled, as I wanted to be in my deco out fit NOW, but we headed for the Art Deco shop. Soon after we arrived a lovely vintage car pulled up - it was Leigh, and of course I felt my un-deco attire all the more keenly when I saw her usual fabulous outfit. We had a quick and enthusiastic catch up, looking forward to seeing each other that night at the Cocktail Cascade. Then lunch as my toe tapped impatiently under the table, a bit more shopping, and finally we could check in and change. Our adjacent rooms in the County were lovely dark wood panelled pre-earthquake survivors, and close to the Library which became a regular backdrop for photos of the outfits. Jill and Sandra were planning on going and picking up our marquee from the lovely Pebble Beach people who had stored it for us since last year so they were in civvies, but Ally, Alison and I went for a promenade.  I was cheating a bit with this Egyptian revival dress - it could almost pass with a push as an afternoon dress (and scandalously short, I know!). ( All Deco'd up! )Then we were finally released onto the streets:  ( Deco Faces )
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